Wave Attenuation at the Mobile Stable Berm
This paper describes work examining the ability of submerged berms to `filter' certain erosive wave energy while allowing accretionary type waves to pass unhindered. Analysis of wave data...
Low-frequency Fluctuations of Suspended Sand and Wave Groups in the Surf Zone
Field observations of the sand suspension near the bottom in surf zone are presented and discussed. Calculated spectra of suspended sand concentration and wave envelope was found to be...
Anomalous Dispersion Paradox in Shallow Water Gravity Waves Shoaling Over Slopping Bottom
Pecularities of celerity spectra of shoaling gravity waves are considered. The results of flume and field experiments focused on the measurements of celerity spectra of shoaling gravity...
On Hurricane-Generated Seas
Two different situations in the relationship between wind speed and sea severity during hurricanes (and tropical cyclones) are clarified from analysis of measured data obtained by NOAA...
A Method for Locating Spikes in a Measured Time Series
Raw directional wave sample time series are frequently contaminated with spikes from various sources. The standard procedure in correctly editing these time series includes locating and...
Estimation of Directional Spectra by ML/ME-Methods
The paper discusses the statistical Maximum Likelihood (ML) and Entropy (ME) methods for estimation of directional wave spectra. A combined ML/ME method is derived, and a reduced version...
Implementation and Validation of a Global Third-Generation Wave Model at Fleet Numerical Oceanography Center
The third-generation Wave Model (WAM) is currently being implemented at the U.S. Navy's Fleet Numerical Oceanography Center (FLENUMOCEANCEN) to replace the operational Global Spectral...
Predicting Wave Spectra With a Third Generation Spectral Wave Model
the ability of the third generation spectral wave model, 3GWAM, to simulate frequency and directional spectra during a northeast storm of October 1990 along the U.S. mid-Atlantic coast...
Evaluation of a Third-Generation Wave Model for the U.S. Atlantic Coast
Accurate description of surface wind fields in ocean spectral wave modelling is of critical importance to estimating storm - induced wave conditions along a coastal reach. A new approach...
Wave Monitoring in The Southern California Bight
An overview of recent research by the Coastal Information Program (CDIP), aimed at effectively monitoring wave conditions in the Southern California Bight, is presented. The topographic...
A Comparison of Wave Statistics in Uni- and Multidirectional Shoaling Seas
the transformation of six unidirectional and multidirectional seas propagating over a 1:25 planar beach are examined in a series of laboratory experiments. In all cases, the mean wave...
Experimental Study of Monochromatic Wave-Ebb Current Interaction
Laboratory experiments were conducted in a 26-m by 36-m basin with a 1:30 plan beach to study the interaction of monochromatic waves and an ebb current in and near shallow entrance channel....
Wave Runup on and Wave Reflection from Coastal Structures
Wave runup and wave reflection are two of the most important, easily quantifiable variables that influence the design of coastal structures. Unfortunately there are very few comprehensive...
Decay of Random Waves on Non-Monotonic Profiles
A model is presented to calculate the decay of random waves in the surf zone with special focus on non-monotonic profiles. A wave-by-wave approach is employed to derive a model that requires...
Propagation of Linear Gravity Waves Over Slowly Varying Depth and Currents
A detailed derivation of some kinematic and dynamic properties linear surface gravity waves-current interaction. The obtained expressions, which are exact within the framework of linear...
The Development of a Wave Data Analysis Standard for a National Wave Measurement Program
The Field Wave Gaging Program (FWGP) at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers' Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) collects and analyzes wave data from around the U.S. coastline to contribute...
Comparisons of Directional Wave Analysis Methods
Four methods analysing directional wave spectrum were testes and compared through numerical simulation. The four methods are (i) the truncated Fourier series (TFS), (ii) the Longuet-Higgins...
The Re-derivation of the NDBC Wind-Wave Algorithm
The National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) currently manages a network of 57 moored buoys and approximately 7 Coastal-Marine Automated Network stations on off shore platforms which transmit...
A Second-Generation Wave Model for Coastal Wave Prediction
A second-generation numerical wave model, WINDWAVE, has been developed for wave prediction in coastal regions. The modal is based on the numerical integration of the energy balance equation...
Numerical Modeling of Waves in Harbors
The numerical wave model HARBD has been used extensively for estimating waves in harbors. The model is used to simulate laboratory tests of long waves in a rectangular harbor with variable...
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